It was a beautiful spring morning, wispy white bands streaking across a deep blue sky. Rumbling up the mountain road, I peered ahead to see the metal gates swung open — a ritual of the season welcoming travelers onto Park City’s highway to the clouds.
This time, it was for real: The actual Guardsman Pass road was open — perfect timing with the upcoming Memorial Day Weekend.
Every time I drive this beautifully paved roadway, lined with guardrails and dotted with no-parking signs, my mind drifts back to our first trip over the pass in the 1980s. Back then, it was a rough dirt mining road, deeply rutted and eroded along the cliff-side drop-offs, with the rusting remains of old cars scattered hundreds of feet below in the brush.
A road is a road, I suppose. But this one feels different.
For me, Guardsman is layered with memories from simple summer hikes to 10,420, to crisp October mornings standing beside the road with my Nikon perched on a tripod, waiting for the first golden light to hit the aspens. It’s one of those places that quietly marks the passage of time.
The morning was still quiet, so I pulled into one of the forbidden no-parking pullouts near the summit. Looking up toward the 10,420-foot peak above the pass, there appeared to be perhaps a hundred feet of clear trail before it disappeared beneath snow. Despite the season’s sparse snowfall, the ridgelines remained brilliantly white, giving the mountain air an extra crispness.
A pair of riders — one on a Harley, the other on a dirt bike — stopped to admire the view and snap photos. A half-dozen cyclists slowly churned upward toward the summit, each pedal stroke carrying them closer to the sky.
As I dropped down into Big Cottonwood Canyon, the snow-covered ridgeline stretched from Clayton Peak to Pioneer, onward to Sunset, Mount Tuscarora and Wolverine. The road twisted through dark evergreen forest where snow still blanketed the ground underneath the sheltering boughs.
At Silver Lake, all was quiet.
Nestled at the entrance to Brighton Ski Resort, which had closed for the season only days earlier, the little lake was just beginning to awaken from winter. Mount Millicent stood sentinel above the shoreline, its snow-covered slopes reflecting softly in the still water. One of the Wasatch’s most beloved family walks was easing gently into spring.
Winding my way down Big Cottonwood, the canyon was bursting awake with spring. Coffee cups steamed on the deck at Silver Fork Lodge, while cars with hikers gathered at the Spruces, Mill B, and Donut Falls trailheads. Down at Storm Mountain Picnic Area, Big Cottonwood Creek thundered through the canyon, swollen with snowmelt and full of life.
After a long winter, the mountains were calling us back once again. And what a beautiful morning it was for a drive.
THINGS TO DO
Here are a few of our favorites. Keep in mind that south-facing slopes should be clear and dry, while sheltered north-facing hillsides may still be snow-covered or wet. Note that most trailheads have parking fees.
Bloods Lake Trail — On the Park City side, with trailhead parking, about a three-mile hike to a hidden mountain lake. Easy for all. Do anticipate some soft ground on sheltered portions of the trail. And watch for the return of the Purple line later this summer to shuttle you up there!
Silver Lake — The quintessential family outing, a mile walk on a flat boardwalk trail with stunning vistas surrounding Mount Millicent.
Silver Fork Lodge — Takes you back in time. A great spot for brunch, lunch or a late-afternoon beer.
Willow Lake — Over in Big Cottonwood, across from Solitude, with a simple 1.5-mile round-trip family hike to a small lake.
Donut Falls — One of the most popular, it features a short but sometimes challenging trail to a wonderful cascade. It’s sheltered and north-facing, so it may be damp.
Moss Ledge Waterfall — A hidden gem, featuring a short walk to a gorgeous waterfall.
Butler Fork — Make it as short or long as you wish. It’s south-facing, so dry now. Even hiking in a mile and back will be memorable.
Storm Mountain Picnic Area — Popular family picnic spot with access to trails, along Big Mountain Creek. Reservable through recreation.gov.