Halfway up Main stands a two-story brick building. Just over a month-and-a-half ago, signs and menus were replaced, inviting North Macedonian cuisine to the streets of Old Town.
Featured at Park City’s “Savor the Summit” event earlier this summer, Kaneo is now the spot for Mediterranean-influenced brunch, lunch and dinner offerings: It “celebrates the roots of its namesake region in North Macedonia,” according to its website.
Leaving behind unconvincing homemade lunches, Park Record Arts Editor Scott Iwasaki and I decided to give it a try, enticed by the crisp website and relatively affordable lunch menu.
We arrived just after opening at noon to find the outdoor patio almost completely full, a summer-time seating option nicely constructed on Main for iconic Park City views. We grabbed one of the last tables and peeked at the menu — unaware that our time on the patio would be short due to a shocking and unpredicted downpour which sent everyone rushing for cover indoors.
Service was quick and respectful, and Stefan was ready to answer any questions. Iwasaki, a vegetarian who also avoids dairy, was happy to find many options which met his restrictions. He ordered the Mediterranean Buddha Bowl ($14), which was brought out quickly and had generous helpings of quinoa, roasted chickpeas, house-made hummus, spring mix and cucumber.
A practicing pescatarian, I ordered the Summer Pasta ($18), a large helping of penne noodles, served in a creamy, white wine lemon sauce. Light and refreshing, the pasta incorporated cubed zucchini, yellow pepper and eggplant.
I was intrigued by the frog legs listed in the “Meze” section of the menu. Does eating frog still count as pescatarian? I was feeling adventurous and, after encouragement from Iwasaki and our server, I decided to give it a go.
The dish of four frog legs ($16) was brought out beautifully plated on a pile of fresh arugula and drizzled with spicy aioli. Freshly beer-battered and perfectly tender, the taste was somewhere between beer-battered fish and chicken wings. I ate two then brought the rest to share with the office (which was less excited about the delicacy than I was).
Everything we ate was fantastic and the culinary team, led by executive chef Michael “Josh” Hart, has done a splendid job with the menu. We agreed that the Mediterranean bowl was our favorite, the house-made hummus really knocking it out of the park — unsurprisingly, considering Kaneo’s specialty as a “Mediterranean bar and lounge.”
Our hostess explained that Kaneo was started by two of the previous owners of The Brick, a couple who moved to Park City from North Macedonia. Much of the staff, herself included, were in Park City on J1 visas for summer work. She explained that she was happy to have cultural ties to the food at Kaneo, having grown up eating most of the menu’s offerings.
“Even frog legs?” I asked. She told us that, while it’s not exactly a cultural dish, her father would hunt and often bring home frog meat to cook with their meals. “If I could change anything on the menu, I would add soups because they’re very healthy and delicious,” she said. “But maybe in the wintertime!”
I love a good soup, so I’ll have to go back and see what changes.
Kaneo, located at 508 Main St., is open daily, Monday-Saturday from 12 p.m. – 9 p.m. and Sunday: 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
