In the distance a cloud of dust rose from the desert floor. As we drew ever closer, the power emanating from the hoofs of the wild mustangs sent our hearts racing. That first experience in Utah’s West Desert years ago left indelible memories with me.
Today, visitors to the vast desert landscape west of Salt Lake City are often in search of the Onaqui herd. But 160 years ago, it was solo riders in red shirts carrying the mail on horseback from St. Joseph, Mo. to Sacramento, Calif. who frequented the barren landscape that today is preserved in the Pony Express Trail from Lehi all the way to the Nevada border.
The West Desert is a fabulous family adventure. This week’s Sunday Drive is tailor made for that Jeep Rubicon you bought a few years ago but are still wondering where exactly to take it. While you can do this route in a carefully-driven passenger car, having that high clearance and 4WD capability will enhance your adventure.
The route itself retraces much of the original track of the pony express from the mid-19th century. It was a commercial enterprise where hardy young men (as young as 14) were recruited for the arduous job of carrying the mail from station to station on horseback, handing off to the next rider. It would take 10 days for a letter to go from Missouri to California, much faster than stagecoach.
The trail is a veritable history lesson, with historic markers every 15-20 miles telling the story of that particular station. A good day trip from Park City will take you to Simpson Springs, where you can see remnants of 19th century homesteads and learn about the importance of that pony express station.
Kids, follow the interpretive displays along the route to learn how long the pony express was in operation. It might surprise you. And see if you can find out how fast they rode.
If you want to have some extra fun, slip the Jeep into 4WD and test your skills on some of the mountain tracks on the south side of the road between Lookout Pass and Simpson Springs.
Today, the West Desert is known as one of Utah’s primary homes for wild mustangs. Whether the horses are native or descendants of animals released from ranches over the years is a topic of some discussion. But all who see them are taken by their majesty. The Onaqui herd now calls the land around the Pony Express Trail their own.
Finding the herd requires research, some good thinking and a pair of binoculars. Be watching west of the Cedar Mountains and Lookout Pass on the Pony Express Trail, out to Dugway and Simpson Springs, and even further west. Look for watering holes – either natural or troughs fed by the Bureau of Land Management. Take time to scan every inch of desert with your binoculars.
If you do encounter the herd, enjoy it from afar. Stay a good distance. Don’t startle them. And resist the temptation to feed them.
It was a dusty weekend as we drove our Jeep Rubicon along a desert track to a watering hole nearly two miles off the road. A quarter mile away, 36 horses hung out together enjoying the day. A pair of horses plus a single wandered slowly to the pond, ever wary of my presence but not letting it interrupt their day.
As I watched the herd, I was struck by the uniqueness of each horse in the color and patterns on their hides. The engagement between them really stood out. Sometimes it was simple touching of heads, occasionally with a battle of front hoofs as they reared up against each other.
Just one warning before you head out. Once you discover the West Desert, you’ll find yourself wanting to go back. It’s one of those places with so much nothingness in every direction, but so much to enrapture you at the same time.
The Details
Overview: Access the Pony Express Trail from Lehi or Tooele. From Faust westward, it’s an improved gravel road – easy for high-clearance vehicles or carefully-driven passenger cars. Plan on a full day from Park City – about 2-½ hours each way to Simpson Springs.
Fun Stuff: Kids will love learning about the Pony Express, all the while keeping an eye out for the Onaqui herd of wild mustangs. It’s also a great place for rock hounding, especially the Dugway geode beds west of Simpson Springs.
Dining: If you come in via Tooele, stop at the historic Penny’s Cafe south of Stockton for breakfast burritos or pop in on the way home for huge hamburgers. Ask Kami about the mustard gas burger!
Cautions: You won’t be alone out there, but you will be remote. Fill up on fuel in Lehi or Tooele. Bring water, sunscreen and sunglasses. Check your spare tire and jack. Download maps to your phone – no cell coverage west of Faust!
Next Week: We’ll be a bit closer to home next week, celebrating the seasonal opening of the Alpine Loop and a springtime visit to Cascade Springs.
About Tom Kelly
A lifelong traveler, Tom Kelly has visited over 100 countries on six continents. But some of his best adventures have been in Utah and the Intermountain West, which he has made his home for 34 years.