As America copes with the reality of the recession, combined with the decline of the dollar’s strength relative to other currencies, we are seeing wine prices go up from almost every country including the USA. Higher gas prices have so drastically increased the cost of shipping that its effect is becoming evident on the prices of wine on the shelf. Ironically, it seems that in times of economic downturn, alcohol consumption actually goes up so we are in need these days of even more wines of exceptional value.
exceptional value, of course, I mean more than wines that are cheap. I am referring to wines that provide good quality for the amount of money you spend and, interestingly enough, many of these wines still hail from Europe.
If you are looking for a little bubbly, and want to keep it under $20 per bottle, keep your eye on Spain and Italy. Spanish Cava is the most prolific sparkling wine in the world and the Spaniards have it down to an exact science. The 2002 Marques de Gelida is presently sold in Utah for a stunning $13 per bottle. The mousse is a little aggressive but character of the region’s classic grapes, xarel-lo, macabeo, and parellada shines through in the most unique and lovely way.
In the northeast of Italy, sparkling wine has long been a tradition and value one its greatest assets. In my opinion the best bubbly in the state for under $20 is the Rotari Arte Italiana for $14. This wine is considerably more reminiscent of Champagne as it uses the typical Champagne varieties: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The mousse is surprisingly fine and the fruit is bright clean and expressive.
The 2005 Louis Latour St. Veran for $17 is one of the best values for a Chardonnay in the state. It is in a style that is lean on the oak but its crispness and clean acidity are incredibly refreshing and the array of fruit and nut flavor is fantastic.
In Spain, the ’05 Veracruz Verdejo is a stunning wine at $12 considering it hits most other wine markets in the country at close to $20. The Verdejo variety is known for its tropical flavors of passion fruit and pineapple and this wine is a very clear example of it.
From Italy’s Piemonte region, the wines made of the Barbera variety have long been the source of some of Italy’s most value-conscious wines and the Boroli house made a Barbera D’Alba in ’05 that is absolutely stunning. Packed with smokey notes and ripe fruit, this wine is definitely one of my at-home regulars. For a long time now, I have found the wines of the Southern Rhone to be shockingly great values and the ’05 Joncier Lirac for $22 is one of the best quality-for-dollar buys in the state.
Zev Rovine is the sommelier and resident cheese monger at the Spotted Frog Bookstore Cafe and Wine Bar, where he teaches weekly wine classes. His wine education comes from the American Sommelier Association in New York City. He tries his very best not to spill the pinot on the bestseller section. If you have any wine queries or comments, he is easily contacted via e-mail at [email protected] .