A realistic plan for preserving your memories while maintaining your sanity

It doesn’t matter if you came of age when Polaroids were cutting-edge or have never taken a picture with anything but your phone. Chances are that somewhere in a closet you’ve got a box, or boxes, of photos that go back decades, or even generations. Spending a weekend organizing them accomplishes several things. You preserve family history, free up closet space, and get to spend some time reminiscing.

1. Assemble your tools

If any of the photos are true family treasures, you’ll probably want a pair of white cotton gloves to protect against oily fingers. And depending on your eyesight, a magnifying glass can help with family resemblances.

Beyond that you’ll need to decide how to store the photos that you hold onto. You can arrange them chronologically in albums or small, specially designed photo boxes; what’s important is to avoid dumping them back into the big boxes again.

2. Sort the images

Start by sorting all the photos into whatever broad categories are most meaningful to you. Dates scribbled on the back, friends, neighbors, family members, events, or travel experiences can all work well.

Just remember that attempting to follow any category with too much precision can be the way to madness. You could pull your hair out trying to assign a year to a picture of a favorite uncle, or, based on the bellbottoms he is wearing, you could throw it onto the 1960’s and 1970’s pile.

3. Play favorites

Once the broad sorting is done, divide the photos in each category by how often you think you’ll want to look at them. One stack should be for the stars — the ones you want to keep immediately at hand, perhaps in an easy-to-access album, or maybe framed and set on a mantelpiece or hung on a gallery wall.

Another stack, the largest, contains photos that occasionally help with reminiscing and documenting but don’t need to come out often. And the last is of photos to be tossed —perhaps painfully unflattering reminders of some social event or out of focus shots of unrecognizable landscapes or somebody’s feet.

4. Label each photo

If you want to preserve dates or other identifying information on photos that are important enough to warrant it, you can accompany each image with a card that contains these details. Or, to ensure that the details and the photo don’t ever become separated, write the information on a back edge of the photo.

For older prints, which will be on fiber paper, using a soft No. 2 lead pencil is fine. But that won’t work on modern photo paper, which has a slicker surface. Best for old and new photos is a soft-tipped, water soluble marker known as a Stabilo pencil, which is available at art supply and craft stores.

When writing, place the photo face down on a clean, hard surface, and press down lightly. In no case use a ball-point pen, which can leave a damaging impression, or a regular felttip marker, which can bleed through the paper.

5. Store the keepers

While sorting and identifying, remove the photos from old sleeves, albums, or storage boxes, which are all likely to be made of material containing chemicals that will damage them over time. (Aging “magnetic” or self-adhesive album pages are particularly harmful.

Try removing the photos by gently sliding a length of dental floss between them and the pages). Instead, use acid-free sleeves, albums, storage boxes, or index files, which are usually labeled as such. If you plan to store photos loosely in an acid-free box, separate them with layers of acid-free paper. And when mounting them in frames, use acid-free matting and backing board.

As important as how you store photos is where, which means no place that moisture, humidity, or extremes of temperature could harm them. If it’s not someplace you’d feel comfortable hanging out for long periods of time — the garage, say — it’s probably not good for your photographs, either.

To read more from Park City HOME Winter 2023 magazine, click here.

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Whether you do them yourself or call in the pros, a dozen often-neglected home-maintenance jobs should be taken care of once or twice a year. A few
require tools, such as a shopvac, not every homeowner will have. That’s where the pros come in. But most are simple to perform and can result in significant savings as well as health benefits for people who suffer from
allergies and asthma.

Dryer vent duct
A lint-clogged dryer vent duct wastes energy, creates a fire hazard, and may be hosting nest-building pests. Clean it at least every six months, but more frequently if you notice slow dry times or unpleasant odors. Pull the dryer away from the wall and detach the duct from the back of the machine. Then ream it out with an electric drill-powered rotating brush attached to a flexible rod (available as a kit at home and hardware stores) and
remove the remaining lint with a wet-dry vacuum cleaner.

Water heater
Left unmaintained, water heaters can suffer from sediment buildup that will decrease their efficiency and shorten their life. Maintenance consists primarily of flushing out the tank, typically once a year, but more often if the water in your area has a high mineral content. It’s a relatively easy job, but the potential for damaging the tank or scalding yourself is high enough that many homeowners are more comfortable having a professional do it.

Cutting board
A coat of oil keeps a wooden cutting board from drying out, cracking, and warping, and creates a barrier against bacteria. Wipe down the board with a mix of lemon juice and coarse salt, rinse clean, and let the board dry. Liberally apply food-safe mineral oil (vegetable oil will turn rancid over time), letting it sink in overnight before lightly buffing the board with a soft cloth or paper towel. For extra protection, add a layer of beeswax, which seals in the oil. Both the oil and wax are available at most hardware
stores or online.

HVAC system filters
Dirty air filters cause heating and air-conditioning systems to work inefficiently and wear out early and can also contribute to health problems. How often to clean or replace a filter depends on such factors as how often the system runs and whether there are pets or allergy and asthma sufferers in the home. Typically, though, it’s done at the beginning of the heating and air-conditioning seasons, which is a good time to have a technician go over
the entire system. Clean a permanent filter by removing it from the unit and rinsing it. With a disposable cardboard filter, whose dimensions will be printed on the frame, just remove and replace it. Both jobs take minutes.

Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors
Even if they are hardwired with a battery backup, standard models should have the batteries changed every six months. If you need to do it sooner, a chirping sound from the unit will let you know. The built-in battery in lithium-powered models can’t be replaced. Instead, replace the entire unit no later than ten years after the manufacture date.

Stove-top hood
To help keep a kitchen stain- and odor-free, a stovetop hood and its exhaust fan filter need a thorough degreasing a couple of times a year. Start by wiping down the outside of the hood. Use a commercial spray or soap and water. Unclip the filter from the hood, soak it for half an hour in a mix of soapy water and baking soda, then scrub it with a brush. Before replacing the filter, inspect the exhaust fan and the duct. If there’s a noticeable
accumulation of grease, get a pro to clean them.

Roof
While roof inspection and repairs often require a professional, homeowners should periodically make their own assessment, typically in the spring and fall or following severe weather. The main things to look for, which you can usually do from the ground, refrigerator manufacturer. Check the package for replacement instructions, but filters are usually easy to access and take only a few minutes to change.

Refrigerator coils
Particularly a problem in homes where pet hair accumulates, dusty condenser coils can result in a refrigerator’s inefficient operation and early demise. The coils on some refrigerators should be cleaned by a technician. For most models, though, it is an easy DIY task. Unplug the fridge, pull it away from the wall, remove the protective grill, and gently go to work with a dust cloth, coil brush, and wet-dry vacuum cleaner.

Mattresses
Unlike older models, modern mattresses are not designed to be flipped over. However, to prevent sagging and minimize wear, most should be
rotated, switching head to foot, several times a year. As for mattress pads, most manufacturers recommend washing them about once a month and replacing them every year or two.

Door and cabinet hinges
Few things are more irritating than a squeaky kitchen cabinet when you are trying to get a midnight snack. The solution is to oil the hinges a couple of times a year. You don’t usually have to remove the door but just apply a few drops of lubricant. Many lubricants will work, including olive oil and petroleum jelly. But the best is silicone spray. Do not use WD-40, which
is primarily a cleaner, not a lubricant.

Garage door
Because a garage door can see hard use, springs, hinges, and rollers should be inspected and lubricated at least every six months. For safety reasons, it is best to have the work done by a professional. In particular, do not attempt to adjust the torsion spring, which is mounted above the door, or any bolt whose head is painted red.

To read the complete HOME Magazine Summer 2022 e-edition, click here.

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Let the summer games begin! As you line up the cornhole boards and track down a shuttlecock for a game of badminton, here are some fascinating facts about backyard play.

Horseshoes

“Close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades,” was coined by a Major League Baseball player and manager, Frank Robinson.

The horseshoes in the game of horseshoes are typically about twice the size of real horseshoes. (en.wikipedia.org.)

Frisbee

The Frisbee was originally sold by Wham-O toy company, in 1957, as the Pluto Platter. flyingdiscmuseum.com

The Guinness World Record for the longest Frisbee throw caught by a dog is 402 feet, set in 2012 by Davy Whippet. (davywhippet.com.)

Tug-of-war

Tug-of-war was an Olympic event from 1900-1920, including 1908, when the American team unsuccessfully protested the winning Brits for wearing spikes on their boots. (express.co.uk.)

Each August, boat traffic is shut down for five hours while LeClaire, Iowa and Port Byron, Illinois have a tug-of-war contest that stretches across the
Mississippi River. (visitquadcities.com.)

Bocce

One of the world’s oldest ball sports is bocce, depicted in a painting in an Egyptian tomb dating to 5200 BC. worldbocce.org In the late 18th century, George Washington built a bocce court at Mount Vernon. (landscapearchitecturemagazine.org.)

Cornhole

Cornhole has grown so popular that it has been aired on ESPN, one championship attracting more viewers than pro baseball and basketball games airing at the same time. cornholeworldwide.com.

In cornhole, the front ends of the two boards are placed 27 feet apart, about the length of a London bus. (playcornhole.org.)

Badminton

The fastest object in sport is the badminton birdie, which has been clocked at more than 300 mph. (olympic.ca)

Because of aerodynamics, the feathers of tournament quality badminton birdies come only from the left wings of geese. (nytimes.com.)

Volleyball

Building a backyard beach volleyball court requires about 140 tons of sand, or seven truckloads. (jaxbeachvb.com.)

Lawn Darts

Sharp-pointed lawn darts are illegal in the U.S. and Canada but not in the European Union. (wikipedia.org.)

Croquet

Some experts believe that croquet owes much of its popularity to the invention, in 1830, of the lawnmower. (tomtribby.wordpress.com.)

The version of croquet played in Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland uses hedgehogs for balls and flamingos for mallets. (sparknotes.com.)

The South Pole hosted its first game of croquet in April of 2005. (common.wikipedia.org.)

To read the complete version of Park City HOME Summer 2022, click here.

The post How well do you know your favorite backyard games? appeared first on Park Record.

Only a few of the most passionate book lovers are likely to have a room devoted entirely to a library. But most people who consider themselves even moderately literate have a bookcase. It doesn’t take more than a weekend to make it more functional as well as more attractive.
 
Examine your subject
 Your first task is to empty the bookcase and decide if it’s worth saving. If it’s made of cheap particleboard, with a cardboard back stapled on, consider junking it and beginning your weekend with an outing to a home store.

Same goes for a bookcase that looks as though it barely survived a basement flood. If you opt to go shopping, look for a bookcase with adjustable shelves that are no more than 24” long, to prevent sagging.

If you want to keep the bookcase you already have but it needs some TLC, give it a wipe-down with a damp sponge or rag, and determine what basic repairs might be necessary. Perhaps nicks and dings need filling with wood putty. Or a sagging shelf needs attending to, which may be as simple as flipping it over so that gravity and time can do the work of straightening it.

Or, with a little more skill, you can correct the sagging by attaching what’s often called a lip to the shelf’s front edge. Commonly, the lip is a 1″ X 2″ strip of wood, the length of the shelf, which is glued or nailed in place.
 
Add some oomph
The most effective makeover is probably a coat of fresh paint. Start by giving the surface a light sanding, and then a coat of primer. Go easy on the sanding, especially if the shelves are particle board covered with a faux-wood laminate, which is really just glued-on paper. And for surfaces that the books will sit on, remember that while paint may dry to the touch in a few hours, it may take a week or more to fully cure. So, by the time you can return everything to the shelves without fear of dinging the paint and leaving an impression, you may be a two-weekend warrior. When painting — or, more importantly, staining — make sure you have plenty of ventilation.

To achieve a sense of depth, consider painting the inside back wall of the bookcase a color that contrasts with the shelves. Or take it a step farther with a back wall of fabric, patterned wallpaper, or a stenciled design.
If the bookcase is a basic box, you might dress it up by adding trim to the facing. This, however, may require a miter saw and the skill to use it.

Available in manual (for the simplest jobs) or power models, the miter saw allows you to cut the angles that the trim work may call for.
 
Edit your collection
Once the bookcase is refurbished, look at the books themselves and get rid of anything that’s just taking up space. Do you still need the Cliff Notes for “Madame Bovary”? Or the 1985 edition of “South-East Asia on a Shoestring”?  If your bookcase was home to assorted knick-knacks, decide which you want to keep on display. That ceramic sombrero ashtray you picked up in Puerto Vallarta before you gave up smoking? The photo of your 2013 office holiday party?

Replace the books by organizing them in a way that suits your personality. If you are of a more practical bent, divide them by subject matter or author. If you are more visually oriented, it’s okay to arrange books by color as long as, for the sake of book lovers everywhere, you don’t sheathe every volume in a blank white dust jacket, or, worse, turn every spine inward.

Books should be brought to the front of the shelf instead of pushed to the back. Stacking some books horizontally will create visual interest, and will help you accommodate volumes that are too large to stand vertically. Horizontal stacks can also create short pedestals for the occasional framed photo or piece of art, which do a nice job of breaking up a solid wall of books.

If you have gotten this far and still have castoff volumes piled on the floor, probably because you are suffering from the pain every book lover feels at the thought of parting with almost any tome, you might ask a public library or local charity if they would like your giveaways. Or (slightly) more profitably, try disposing of them online at a used-book website such as Ziffit.com, where, for example, a hardback edition of John Milton’s “Complete Poems and Major Prose” in mint condition will fetch you a lofty $1.20.

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Fitness trends are notorious for exploding onto the scene and then fading almost as quickly. If, for example, you are wondering whatever happened to your Shake Weight oscillating dumbbell, it’s probably in the back of a closet, next to your Ab Roller. So, while some people are predicting that the commercial gym may go the way of the video rental store and that personal trainers may all become virtual, no one really knows what will happen to exercise preferences post Covid-19.

One thing does seem certain, though. If you opt for a home gym, which, according to a 2021 study by the National Association of Home Builders, 47% of all current home-buyers would like to do, you will no longer have to hide it in the basement.

Mirrors muscle in
Helping to bring home gyms up the stairs is a new category of space-saving, wall-mounted home exercise devices, and their stand-alone counterparts, known as fitness mirrors. Looking like a cross between a full-length dressing mirror and an elongated flat-screen TV, fitness mirrors take up very little floor space. But because of their internet-connected brain power, they allow you to get as much of a workout as those rows of metal behemoths that can make a commercial gym look like an automobile assembly plant.

Among the best-known fitness mirrors are the Tonal, which is focused on strength training, and The Mirror, which is more about cardio. Both have a strong field of competitors, including the Echelon Reflect Touch, Nordic Track Vault, and Tempo Studio, which in addition to monitoring functions such as heart rate, rep count, and range of motion, can stream live and on-demand workouts as well as offer Zoom-like group classes and even interactive one-on-one personal training.

Entertained and energized
Technological advances have also brought more traditional exercise machines up into the light. Many new treadmills, stationary bikes, and rowing machines have lost the clunk of the old equipment and have all the connective abilities of the smart mirrors. For example, a rocket-sleek rowing machine, the Hydrow, lets you follow programs that seem to put you and a trainer on the Charles River, or the Thames, or other famous rowing venues worldwide. And with other smart machines, you can compete virtually in events like the Boston Marathon or the Tour de France. Or you can take a solitary ride through Tuscany or Redwood National Park.

Committing to the new generation of home exercise machines can be expensive. One of the least costly, The Mirror, starts at $1,495, and a few go up to more than $10,000. There’s almost always a monthly membership fee, typically between $39 and $49, which you need to access the video programs.

Sweating in style
For many homeowners, it is not so much about the cost or the gee-whizz technology. For them, a primary consideration is if the machines can fit into their home’s décor. Which is why another trend, at the luxury end of the home gym phenomenon, is exercise machines that might not look out of place in a design museum. For example, a German company, NOHrD, produces machines with oiled hardwood frames in the customer’s choice of ash, walnut, or cherry. And the Italian company Ciclotte has a futuristic-looking stationary bike that replaces a regular frame with a transparent crystal disc.

Some of these fashion-forward machines don’t have all the connectiveness of, say, a Peloton, the stationary bike that became such a craze at the beginning of the Covid crisis that people were panic buying them as if they were toilet paper. On the other hand, they add style to just about any room, especially if they are accompanied by such high-end fitness accessories as gold-handled jump ropes, polished-bronze kettlebells, and Giorgio Armani or Louis Vuitton branded dumbbells.

Nor is it just home exercise machines that are being transformed, but the home exercise space as well. Where there’s room — and money — people are adding yoga or meditation areas, soft flooring, ventilation fans, entertainment systems, and infrared heating for hot yoga. More and more, planning for all of this is being done during the home’s initial design stage.

And if the future of the home fitness boom seems too uncertain for you to make a considerable investment in? It may be comforting to know that after a 40-year career in the fitness industry and a six-year disappearance from the public eye, Richard Simmons is once again inviting you to join him “Sweatin’ to the Oldies,” this time on YouTube videos.

The post Park City Home Trend Report: The New Home Gym appeared first on Park Record.

The joy of home ownership is sometimes dependent on the closeness of your relationship to a local handyman, plumber, electrician, or carpenter, particularly one who works on weekends. There’s even more joy, however, in knowing that you can fix a problem yourself. Here are ten of the most common household snafus which, based on your skill level, you can tackle yourself.

Red wine on the carpet
Uh-oh. Red wine down. Respond immediately to the stain, blotting, not rubbing, with a clean white rag. Then blot again, as many times as necessary, with a home remedy such as club soda or a mix of a dishwashing liquid, white vinegar, and water. If this doesn’t work, and you don’t have a commercial product such as Wine Away or Chateau Spill at hand, it’s time to call a professional.
skill level: BEGINNER

Cracked floor tile
If the crack is the result of an underlying problem, such as a crack in the concrete substrate the tile sits on, repairing it can be a job for a professional. But minor hairline cracks are relatively easy to fix. Simply apply a narrow bead of epoxy filler along the crack, scrape away the excess with a knife, and, when the epoxy is dry, cover it with a touch of paint that matches the tile color. The keys are to attack the problem early, before moisture gets behind the tile, and to work fast, as epoxy dries quickly.
skill level: INTERMEDIATE

Minor scratches on wood furniture
Use a slightly dampened cloth to wipe down the scratch with a mild solution of water and dishwashing liquid. Let the area dry for a few minutes while you boil water for tea – black, not green or herbal. Pour the boiling water over the tea bag and let it steep for a few minutes, longer for darker wood, shorter for lighter. Dip a cotton swab into the tea and dab it onto the scratch, being careful not to splash any on the surrounding area. Relax. Drink the tea.
skill level: BEGINNER

Permanent marker on walls
The gentlest approach is to apply either white toothpaste or a paste of baking soda and water to the mark and rub, first with a damp cloth, then a dry one. If that doesn’t work, try a commercial stain remover such as Mr. Clean Eraser or Magic Green. Other, more powerful, cleaning agents include rubbing alcohol, hand sanitizer, and even WD-40. But use them cautiously, as they may discolor paint. As a last resort, paint over the mark, perhaps considering, as you work, whether artistic expression should be encouraged in a child’s earliest years.
skill level: BEGINNER to INTERMEDIATE, depending on whether you need to paint

Clogged drain
Unclogging a drain can require specialized tools, such as a power auger, and a plumber’s knowledge of how to use them. But the first step, and one any homeowner can take, is to use a plunger, which every household ought to have stored away somewhere. Partially fill the sink, tub, or toilet with water. Use a wet rag to block any overflow openings and, if you are working on a double sink, the other drain. Forcefully work the plunger up and down before pulling it away. Often, that’s all that’s necessary.
skill level: BEGINNER

Tilting picture frames
Sometimes it seems as if gremlins must be sneaking in during the night and setting picture frames askew. A quick fix is to roll up small dabs of mounting putty and affix them to the back of the frame’s corners. Or similarly, use self-adhesive-backed rubber wall bumpers, and let the gremlins look for work elsewhere.
skill level: BEGINNER

Bathroom mold and mildew
Spray the affected area with a commercial disinfectant such as Clorox Antifungal Cleaner. Scrub vigorously, especially any grout, then spray with an equal mix of bleach and water. Wear gloves and open the windows or use a ventilation fan. For a natural alternative, use either a paste of baking soda and water or a half-and-half mix of hydrogen peroxide and water. To discourage mold and mildew from returning, spray the area with distilled vinegar, full strength, which is especially effective at killing spores.
If you suspect black mold, which can be toxic, turn the entire cleanup over to a professional. Black mold typically starts in the corner of a wall and expands outward, has an intense smell, and can be grey and green. When in doubt, call in a pro.
skill level: BEGINNER, unless black mold is suspected

Sticking drawers
A wooden drawer that sticks is the kind of minor nuisance you might let go on for years. But there’s no need to live with it when the fix takes only a few minutes. Just rub paraffin (candle wax or silicone lubricant work well, too) on any surfaces of the drawer that come in contact with each other. Another solution is to apply self-adhesive nylon tape to those same surfaces.
skill level: BEGINNER

Running toilet
Several common problems can cause a toilet to run. For most toilets, all are relatively easy to attend to, but they require enough explanation that it’s best to look for help online or in a home-repair book. The problems include: a float that is set too high, a fill tube that needs to be shortened, a flush handle or flapper chain that needs adjustment, and a leaking flapper that needs to be replaced. Whether you DIY it or use a professional, the repair will save you significantly on your water bill.
skill level: INTERMEDIATE to ADVANCED

Sticking door
If a sticking door is caused by humidity or a settling house, it may have to be removed and planed to resolve the problem. But before calling a carpenter, try giving some attention to the door hinges. If the hinge screws have begun to unscrew themselves, as commonly happens, just tighten them again. Or if they are pulling straight out, replace them with longer screws. To keep the job from becoming more complicated than it needs to be, use a screwdriver, as attempting to back the screws out with an electric drill can sometimes strip the screw heads.
skill level: INTERMEDIATE

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A gallery wall is a way to display favorite pieces of art that might look a little underwhelming when hung individually, but make major visual impact when grouped together. Anyone who’s shopped for substantial pieces of quality art knows that the larger the piece, the bigger the price tag. Alternatively, a gallery of smaller pieces is a more affordable way to fill a big space.

Gather your gear
As room-altering as creating a gallery wall can be, it is a project you can easily accomplish in a weekend, and with just a few tools:

• Kraft paper or newsprint
• Pencil
• Scissors
• Painter’s tape
• Tape measure
• Hammer
• 24” level
• Picture hanging hardware, usually sold as a packaged assortment

For convenience, an electric drill, stud finder, and stepladder may also
be helpful.

Before you begin measuring and hammering, you will want to do some advance work. Scout closets, drawers, shelves, and the basement or attic for orphan pieces of art in need of a home. Unbox the collection of watercolors from a long-ago summer in Italy, and comb through old photo albums. To give photos more impact (and to preserve the originals, if they are family treasures), consider having them enlarged and perhaps converted to black and white by a high-quality photo store. Not everything has to be a traditional piece of art. Vintage scarves, baskets, ceramics, mirrors, and musical instruments can all add texture and interest.

Mat and frame your pieces
Additional prep work that might require a separate weekend or outsourcing to a professional includes matting and framing individual pieces.

Although one purpose of matting (best done with acid-free paper) is to keep a photo or piece of art from sticking to the glass, it is essentially a border that adds a design element. You have several options. Use a white mat to make a piece stand out against a dark frame. Or choose a colored mat to complement the tone of a piece. Selecting a wide mat lets you display a smaller piece in a larger frame, giving it more importance. Especially for larger photos and posters, you may decide to forgo a mat entirely.

Among the basics for choosing a frame, focus most on making sure it works with the room’s décor. Select lighter frame colors for a more casual look and darker for a more formal one. For contrast, use frame colors that are not too similar to the mat or wall colors.
 
Finesse your layout
After gathering the pieces together, arrange them on the floor. Color is usually the primary consideration when organizing a display, as it often creates cohesion between pieces that might otherwise seem an unlikely match. Repeating frame styles, textures, sizes, shapes, or subject matter can all bring harmony to a group of disparate items.

To ensure that a viewer’s eye will make a sweep of the entire gallery, place your largest piece at one of the corners or, if it is a more extensive collection, somewhat off-center from the middle of the entire display. Place your second largest piece somewhere adjacent to it. The space between pieces can be whatever looks right, but a common distance is 2″ – 3″.
 
Get it on the wall
The next step, which is to get the pieces from the floor to their location on the wall, is the one that intimidates people the most. But there is a relatively simple way to go about it.

First, lay each framed item on a piece of kraft paper or newsprint, trace it with your pencil, and cut it into a template. Mark each template where the hanger for the piece is located. Using painter’s tape, re-create the floor arrangement on the wall, adjusting the spacing until you are happy with the result. Drive a nail into each template at the hanger location, rip away the paper, and, voila.

Consider the spacing
 The vertical central point of the gallery wall space is commonly at eye level, about 60 inches from the floor. If it is going over a piece of furniture, the bottom of the gallery display usually starts 4″ – 6″ above a sofa or credenza (if it is going over a sofa or chair, make sure someone sitting there won’t hit the piece with their head).

If your gallery wall has an odd number of pieces in the horizontal rows, the horizontal central point is at the center point of the middle piece. If you are hanging an even number of pieces in the horizontal rows, it is the center point of the space separating the two middle pieces.

Again, these are just standard measurements, primarily helpful for working with a formal grid. This is when your tape measure and level will become most important. For a more free-form approach, it’s perfectly acceptable — whether you are arranging a gallery wall of museum-quality photos, framed textiles, or amateur art picked up at a flea market — just to eyeball everything until it feels right.  

The post Park City Home Weekend Warrior: How to Create a Gallery Wall appeared first on Park Record.

Whether building a new home or renovating an old one, many people choose the exterior materials based mostly on aesthetics. And looks do matter. Who doesn’t want a home that neighbors and prospective buyers admire for its beauty?

But for the happiest siding experience, considerations other than looks are equally important. What does it cost? How long will it last? What’s the deal with maintenance and repair? Does it suit the climate? How well does it serve as insulation?

Here are some pros and cons for popular sidings found in the Mountain West.

Stone
Natural stone is about as distinctive, durable, and expensive as siding can get. Because of the installed cost, from $30 – $50 per square foot, and because natural stone’s weight makes it so hard to work with, a number of stone siding alternatives have been developed, often designed to be used as architectural accents. They range from stone cladding, which slices the natural stone into more manageable slabs, to natural or manufactured stone veneers. As impervious to harsh weather as it is, stone siding, especially stone veneer, can suffer moisture-related problems if infiltrating water is allowed to become trapped behind it. But even in a climate where severe winter freezes are a regular part of life, if properly installed to allow for drainage a stone exterior can last 100 years or more.
 
Wood
Attractive, a better insulator than most other sidings, and — if regularly maintained — durable, wood is a popular and timeless choice for home exteriors. Relatively easy to install and repair, wood siding comes in a variety of species, including cedar and redwood. Both offer resistance to insects, although redwood has become increasingly hard to find. Wood siding is available in many styles, including clapboard (or lap), which runs horizontally; board and batten, which is oriented vertically; and tongue and groove, which can be installed in any direction, including diagonally. 
Be aware that while shingle-style wood siding and similar but thicker and more roughly milled shake-style have traditionally been admired for their natural beauty, and are still in wide use, they can present a significant degree of fire risk. Other drawbacks of wood siding are that maintaining it takes work, and that if it is rotted, cracked, or in some other way damaged, it needs to be repaired immediately to prevent moisture problems. Installed, wood siding costs $3 – $10 per square foot and needs to be repainted every 3 – 5 years. But properly maintained, it can last a house’s lifetime.

Logs
A special variation of wood siding, logs, which form an integral part of the dwelling’s walls, often bring to mind off-the-grid cabins in the woods. But in fact, log homes’ unique ability to meld with their natural surroundings have long made luxury versions of them envied fixtures of communities throughout the Mountain West. The logs are either individually peeled by hand for a more rustic look or pre-milled for uniformity. And they work well with many architectural styles, ranging from American craftsman, with its gabled roof and overhanging eaves, to mountain modern, whose expanses of glass can bring the outdoors into the living room. Drawbacks are that the log walls are difficult to maintain and insects can be a problem. Because of the fire risk, log homes may not be insurable. On the other hand, insurance companies might want to note that the oldest log cabin in America, still standing in Gibbsville, New Jersey, was built in 1638.

Glass
Mountain homes have traditionally made minimal use of glass, as the material provides limited insulation. But for those unbothered by the energy bills, walls of folding or sliding glass doors have become synonymous with modern mountain style. Their beauty is dependent on cleanliness, which means frequent professional washing. And unless you invest in draperies, glass walls put whatever is happening inside your home on public display. In cold climates, glass wall systems are built with aluminum-wood clad, with wood as the foundation, which helps thermal performance. While the cost of installing simple glass walls runs $25 to $75 per square foot, the national average of folding glass walls is a hefty $800 to $1,200 per linear foot.
 
Cement fiber
Sometimes called Hardie Board after its most successful manufacturer, cement fiber siding is so flame-resistant that it is becoming a preferred material in areas where wildfires are a growing threat. Often molded to look like wood, compared to which it can be more durable, it also features low maintenance and resistance to rot and insects. Installed, it costs $6 – $13 per square foot. Cement fiber’s chief shortcomings are difficulty of installation and brittleness, which may cause it to chip or crack. But its longevity is such that warranties of up to 50 years are available.
 
Vinyl
Easy to install, maintenance-free, and affordable, vinyl has become the most popular siding in the country. Like cement fiber siding, it can chip or crack in extreme winter cold, although that risk can be lessened by using thicker, higher-quality material. It can be molded to replicate wood grain, but a general perception is that vinyl siding does not have a luxury-home look. But that, too, can be countered by using higher-quality vinyl, which comes in many styles, textures, and colors, including an insulated option that can reduce energy costs. It costs $3 – $8 per square foot, installed, and will last up to 40 years. Keep in mind that after a decade of harsh weather, vinyl can look worse for the wear.
 
Metal
Mainly because of cost, aluminum siding is decreasing in popularity in the U.S. while steel siding is increasing. There’s an aesthetic reason as well. While aluminum siding has never been chosen for its looks, black steel has become a trendy material, particularly for doors and window frames. Both metals share attributes that can make them practical choices. They are durable, low maintenance, and resistant to rot, insects, mildew, and fire. Both are available in a variety of colors and styles, and both are environmentally friendly. Steel is cheaper, $5 – $10 per square foot installed, compared to $7 – $14 for aluminum. And steel will last longer, up to 60 years, compared to up to 50 years for aluminum. Both can be subject to dents and dings, but steel less so. Because steel is heavier, it is more difficult to install. And while both stand up well to harsh winters, aluminum is a better insulator. Although steel is better if the Wizard of Oz is trying to blow your home off its foundation.

The post Park City Home Trend Report: Exteriors appeared first on Park Record.

Renovating a bathroom is among the most expensive projects a homeowner can undertake. But giving a bathroom a fresh look usually requires no more than a good decluttering, sorting, scrubbing, and reorganizing.

Declutter
In the bathroom, decluttering means getting rid of everything, from cosmetics to mismatched washcloths, which may have served a purpose in the past or that you might need at some far-off time in the future, but are not using now. That includes everything from the pain meds from when your daughter had her wisdom teeth removed to the face-lift-in-a-jar samples from a mall kiosk. If it sounds like a lot of work, remember that decluttering is the best way to start because when you are done, there’ll be less to scrub and less to reorganize.

To begin, go through every area where you store bathroom items, including the medicine cabinet, under-the-sink drawers and cabinets, vanity tops, bathroom shelves, linen closet, toilet tank top, and tub and shower organizers. Next, divide all of the bathroom items into categories.

Categories can include medications, first-aid supplies, dental care items, cosmetics, hair products, skincare items, shaving equipment, nail care paraphernalia, perfumes and lotions, and travel sizes. Bulkier items, such as washcloths and towels, boxes of tissue, toilet paper, kids’ bath toys, and bathroom cleaning supplies, should be similarly organized. Use baskets, bins, or dedicated spaces on the floor to keep each category separate.

Sort
Now assess each pile’s individual items and decide whether to keep, toss, recycle, or donate.

For anything with an expired use-by date, safely dispose of the contents (do not pour medicines down the drain or flush down the toilet) and recycle the container. Most importantly, this includes prescription medications and first-aid products. Many toiletries, such as shampoo, toothpaste, and deodorant, also have a use-by date, after which they can begin to lose their effectiveness.

If you have several opened containers of the same product, try to consolidate them (a kitchen funnel will help with liquids). If a container is recyclable, it will have a recycle symbol and a number, from 1 to 7, on the bottom. Containers with a 1 or 2 are almost universally recyclable, with acceptance of the others varying.

If donating, consider that not every charity will accept personal-care items. If they are accepted, items must be in their original, unopened packaging. On the other hand, many animal shelters will gladly welcome old towels and bathmats. Thrift stores such as Goodwill accept hairdryers and other small appliances in working condition.

Even if you travel frequently, keep only a minimum number of travel-size items on hand that you can grab and go. Nowadays, almost every hotel stocks its bathrooms with soap, shampoo, and conditioner. Homeless shelters are a good place to take your unopened overflow.

Scrub
With all your bathroom items out of their storage areas, now is the time for scrubbing — the cabinets, drawers, shower, tub, toilet, countertops, and faucets. For the most satisfying results, commit to a truly deep cleanse: Use chrome polish on the bathroom hardware and scrub any stained grout. Specialized commercial cleaners are available for these, but a bristle brush or rag and some combination of water, vinegar, and baking soda can usually do a good job, too. While you’re at it, toss the shower curtain and liner in your washing machine.  

Reorganize
Because heat and humidity can damage them, some items typically found in a medicine cabinet, especially prescription medications, should be kept elsewhere. Store them instead in a bedroom drawer or, if you have small children, out of reach on a closet shelf.

Items you can keep in the medicine cabinet include over-the-counter vitamins and items you might want in a hurry, such as bandages or a thermometer.  

To keep soap, shampoo, loofas, and other bathing products from balancing precariously and unattractively on the tub and shower ledges, the most practical solution is an organizer hanging from the showerhead. If you have young children, store bath toys in mesh bags hung from suction cups on the side of the tub. 

If your under-sink cabinets don’t have shelves, use stackable clear plastic or labeled bins for keeping groups of products together. Likewise, organize drawers using silverware tray dividers for smaller items such as tweezers, hair clips, and makeup brushes. The goal is to keep almost everything hidden but handy.

Countertop space is best dedicated only to things you want at hand several times daily, such as soap, hand lotion, or tissues. But if you find it necessary, a small, tiered tray for miscellaneous items can prove helpful and, depending on what’s being displayed, a pleasing piece of décor. And a handsome countertop set of jars for cotton balls, swabs, and toothbrushes can make daily grooming feel like less of a chore. 

The post Park City Home Master Class: Ultimate Bathroom Cleanse appeared first on Park Record.

Every yard has eyesores a homeowner can’t easily get rid of — utility boxes, AC units, protruding pipes, a next-door-neighbor’s questionable choice of paint color for a toolshed. Here are some simple ways to hide them from view, or, if that doesn’t work, trick your eyes into not seeing them.

Leave enough elbow room
Before starting any yard concealment project, consider that some eyesores, like AC units, need space on all sides and the top for air circulation. Meanwhile, elements such as utility boxes and propane tanks require access for service and monitoring. A couple of feet of clearance on all sides may be enough, although for easy access, the distance may need to be up to 10 feet. Check local ordinances for required clearances, as well as for fence and wall heights and for root systems of trees and large shrubs that could prove damaging to underground pipes.
 
In praise of foliage
Almost any outdoor eyesore can be hidden by foliage, especially if the foliage is evergreen and can afford coverage year-round. Tall shrubs or climbing vines can disguise even the concrete side of a garage. But be wary of aggressive plants, such as ivy, that may creep into other parts of the yard and of anything whose roots could prove problematic. The simple way to avoid both issues is by using potted plants. Not only are they easier to contain, but they can also be moved around if the foliage isn’t doing the concealment job you hoped for or if the object you are trying to hide occasionally needs to be accessed.
 
Screens and fences to the rescue
Sometimes, though, the solution is not foliage. A changing season can turn a foliage screen skeletal, or the hot air discharged from an air conditioner can prove withering. In those cases, a good alternative may be a privacy screen, which is typically a short section of wood lattice fencing, often moveable to aid access, that can be used to hide anything from trash cans and AC units to garden hoses and charcoal grills. However, the griller-in-chief may sometimes object to hiding the latter, as part of the function of that office is to be seen front and center.

Like privacy screens, good fences make good neighbors, especially if the fence is solid enough or high enough to hide your good neighbors’ eyesores from view. If local ordinances don’t allow for a high-enough fence, supplementing it with a row of tall shrubs or trees can often be the solution. If the fence belongs to the neighbors and is industrial-looking chain-link, try a friendly offer to soften its impact by spray-painting it a color that blends with the surroundings, typically a shade of green or brown, or weaving a lattice of reed or bamboo between the links.

Conceal necessary nuisances
As helpful as it can be, another item that can create an eyesore is a garden hose. Many commercial wall-mounted hangers are available if you want to keep it neatly on display (“neatly” will depend on how good you are about rewinding it after each use), and enclosed boxes if you don’t. But to be more creative, hide the hose by coiling it inside an under-bench box, a bronze storage tub, or if you’re a funkier family, a re-purposed car tire, painted to blend in.

For protruding pipes, one creative way of hiding them is with hollowed-out fake rocks or tree stumps. For the obsessive DIYer, it is possible to create your own rocks out of concrete or, less permanently, papier-mâché. Everyone else will find them at larger garden supply stores. Just make sure they look like they are native to your region, or at least your planet.
 Other artificial landscaping elements that work well at concealing protruding pipes are garden benches, especially if they have a back, as well as planters, birdbaths, fountains, statues, and obelisks, ideally hollow.
 
Distract the eye
If concealment isn’t practical, an alternative approach is to hide offending objects in plain sight. A paintbrush can be as effective as a magician’s wand for making some eyesores disappear. If the offending object, such as a utility box, is close to the house or attached to it, just paint it the same color as the house and it vanishes.

Another solution is to create an arrangement of objects or foliage that takes attention away from an eyesore. A colorful garden can help do that, and trees or tall shrubs can draw your eyes upward and away from the offending object. Sound, too, can play a role, as in a gurgling water element that says, “Look here, not there.”

Keep in mind, though, that the various elements, spread out across a yard, work best if they are tied together thematically – lattice fences and trellises of a similar style and color, groupings of plants that create a cohesive design.

When drawing the eye away, scale is important, too. If the objects meant to distract are too small, they can be overwhelmed by their surroundings. If they are too large, they can become eyesores themselves and have people wondering if the statement you are trying to make is that the Jolly Green Giant is having a yard sale.  

The post Weekend Warrior: Hiding in Plain Sight appeared first on Park Record.